Back to Basics with Blink Bonny!

[strang steel]

I think your rear view comparison shots are excellent Blackout. To me, the varnish not only gives the loco a more true to life shiny appearance, but it adds a richness to the colours which is not apparent in the semi-matt "out of the box" model loco.

And is it really constructive criticism, to use the word "mutilate"?

[mick b]

but why mutilate a Mallard with brush applied varnish

That is because thinned varnish sprayed on would not create an accurate effect of the condition of the real locomotive's casing, which is much less than perfectly smooth

Yes I understand what you are saying

BUT

The model is in 4mm scale. Mallard maybe less than smooth in real life but that does not translate to the finish achieved in you model. The lumps and bumps in full scale would probably be in the region of three inches or more high , hardly realistic.

A much better finish if you want shiny which does not scale down at all well and never looks right on a model, is to either airbrush or use a aerosol can of satin varnish. this will give a "scale" sheen to the model without lumps and bumps.

Varnish for whatever reason normally doesnt brush well on models leaving streaks and lumps, this can be because it is :-
old , not stirred enough, too thick, poor quality,

If the model has not been cleaned before varnishing dust and other muck will cause all sorts of problems to the end finish, if not cleaned off prior to varnshing or painting of any model.

[Iron Duke]

I think I will take up stamp collecting.............

[60800]

I agree that varnish isn't the easiest thing to apply with a brush, but I also don't have access to an airbrush, and initally felt that it would be fine with a regular brush. The tender sides took a few tries to get right, but it proves that a decent model can be made using beginner techniques. The model is admittedly not perfect in itself, but it is perfect for how I wanted to run and display it. Now to go and print off some 'Mallard 88' headboards

Uh,oh - this thread seems to be doing the opposite of it's intention

[Manxman1831]

I think we should all just let BB get on with his thread, and IF we have any contributions concerning subjects that he may not cover, or perhaps to reinforce an approach, then whoever can PM him with the idea and let the final decision for contribution be made by him. J.J.'s approach is an example of how to get a museum-appearance loco, if anyone has an alternative let it be shown and described.

Don't make the mistake of poo-pooing an idea, based on individual taste, it could be that someone else might consider using it on their equipment.

[Saint Johnstoun]

The problem with brush applied varnish is that the minimum thickness one can get on application is around .003-.005 of an inch, and on an item of small scale like a loco thickness shows, especially with clear varnish over ordinary colour. With airbrushing, a very thin coat, even as thin as 0003 of an inch is possible.

The smaller the scale, the more brush painting shows up. I remember several years ago being shown a model bus that had been painted using authentic colours by an ex Alexanders painter who used to brush paint buses at their overhaul works. The result was awful as he had used the same paints they used to paint full size buses and then true to prototype varnished it.

I steer clear of brush painting apart from scenery or small areas as no matter how careful you are, in 4mm scale it still looks brushed on to me.

[Blink Bonny]

Ay up!

I'm beginning to regret inviting Blackout to go first......

[mick b]

I cant see any problem, good advice on how to obtain finishes to models has been the result as per the intention of the thread.

Whatever way you do it or whatever you like as a finish on a model has been discussed.

Its your model at the end of the day

[Autocar Publicity]

Three things which have not been mentioned in all the previous posts, but I think have a massive impact on how a model looks, especially in photos:

scale colour

viewing distance

lighting [including of photography]

Of these, I think the last is the easiest to cope with and can make the difference between a model looking 'great' and 'a mess'. Model photography is tricky (I think it's far worse than 'normal', outdoor photography) and have lost count of the times I've had a picture of a model which looks different to the naked eye's view. Looking at a lot of model photos (whether here or elsewhere on the Net) I suspect many of them have been photographed under less than ideal conditions.

I'll not get involved in the brush vs airbrush debate. Whichever you decide on, when you come to photograph it, to achieve best results - slow shutter speed, wide aperture and use a tripod! Oh, and if you don't have good lighting (preferably using a daylight-balanced floodlamp), don't bother taking your camera out of its bag...

[Daddyman]

Blackout, it's your model, but if you're convinced by any of the comments (I personally am convinced by many, on both sides of the debate), you know that you have the option of using Modelstrip on this loco? If you apply it for 8-10 mins - no more! - then you would only remove the varnish that you have added, not any of the printing. If you get bits of varnish still stuck in corners, go again, 8-10 mins with a localised application of Modelstrip.
As I suggested on your thread, I would never dare brush-paint a loco, but then that doesn't mean that airbrushing is the solution. It took me almost ten years (and three dreadful airbrushes) to learn how to get a good finish with airbrushing, especially with varnish, because if you spray too thinly you just get a 'fizzy' surface. As Ian Rathbone says, you have to spray at 'IP' - the paint's 'Instability Point', when you are always at the risk of flooding - and thus ruining - the model. Unless you're planning to instantly become a Tom F, with his superb shean finishes, you're going to get a lot of messed-up models in your first years of using an airbrush.
For that reason, when it comes to shean, as it always should I think, even if only in a few places, for example under the boiler on a filthy loco (and this is why an out-of-the-box Mallard will always look awful EDIT: This is too strong: better to say it doesn't convince me, while I acknowledge that it can generate pleasure when running), I always burnish. See photo.

Incidentally, I said it took me ten years to learn to airbrush. What finally taught me was 10 secs of Ian Rathbone spraying a model on his BRM DVD. You see him precisely working at IP. I'd always been too timid and always ended up with that fizzy, dusty finish.

[60800]

Blackout, it's your model, but if you're convinced by any of the comments (I personally am convinced by many, on both sides of the debate), you know that you have the option of using Modelstrip on this loco? If you apply it for 8-10 mins - no more! - then you would only remove the varnish that you have added, not any of the printing

I'm not overly sure I'd have the guts to do that, but I may look into it if I decide I don't like the finish. I'm very happy with the current effect, but in a few years I may be overhauling stock and decide to do it

[Tom F]

. Unless you're planning to instantly become a Tom F, with his superb shean finishes, you're going to get a lot of messed-up models in your first years of using an airbrush.

You are too kind Daddyman. My only airbrush results are through weathering plus use of Johnsons Klear. I'm planning repaints but haven't yet done one.

Blackout, I'd very much recommend any/all of the Right Track DVDs. Tony Wright is very entertaining in his kit building and detailing RTR DVDs. The one on Ian Rathbone and painting is invaluable!

[earlswood nob]

Morning all
A "back to basics" question. I am currently adding brake gear to new chassis for Kays J50s'. After solderiing the brake shoes together, I smear Araldite over the face of the shoes to eliminate shorts on the wheels. This takes time to cure.
Is there a better way or is my methodology correct?
keep up the good work
Earlswood Nob

[jwealleans]

If you use brass brake shoes, you're doing what most people do.

The alternative (if they look something like what you;re aiming for) are the plastic shoes from Alan Gibson.

[mick b]

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