Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Moderators: 52D, Tom F, Rlangham, Atlantic 3279, Blink Bonny, Saint Johnstoun, richard
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Although it hasn’t been without its trials, I have made good progress this week and the bodywork is almost complete.
The left side handrail caused a few problems because the etched hole in the cab front, to which I had soldered the tube for the handrail proved to be slightly out of position. I am not sure whether it was a vagary of the hand drawn art work which I have then exacerbated as I have opened the hole with a broach or that my positioning of the boiler was slightly low.
To make it all line up I had to remove the stub of tube, fill the hole with brass rod and file flush then redrilling the hole slightly lower.
I also drilled the rims of the buffer stocks and inserted some scale hardware fittings the collar of the buffer stocks is quite small so it was a bit nerve wracking drilling with a 0.4mm drill bit, but it came out okay.
All the boiler fittings are soldered in place with the exception of the smokebox door which it just resting in place for the photos.
The front steps come with an interesting fold up support which makes them fairly rigid but before I had finished fitting the front one’s, I had managed to bend the rear ones so I soldered some 2x1mm bar behind them to give some strength.
The only things left to fit, are a pair of globe lubricators that sit on the front of the sandboxes either side of the smokebox. The reason that I haven’t fitted them yet is that I have lost them. I bought them at the same time as the backhead and some additional valve rods so I know that they are here somewhere but can I find them….
Of course, the moment I order some more to replace them they will pop out from where they are hiding so I am holding off for the minute.
The left side handrail caused a few problems because the etched hole in the cab front, to which I had soldered the tube for the handrail proved to be slightly out of position. I am not sure whether it was a vagary of the hand drawn art work which I have then exacerbated as I have opened the hole with a broach or that my positioning of the boiler was slightly low.
To make it all line up I had to remove the stub of tube, fill the hole with brass rod and file flush then redrilling the hole slightly lower.
I also drilled the rims of the buffer stocks and inserted some scale hardware fittings the collar of the buffer stocks is quite small so it was a bit nerve wracking drilling with a 0.4mm drill bit, but it came out okay.
All the boiler fittings are soldered in place with the exception of the smokebox door which it just resting in place for the photos.
The front steps come with an interesting fold up support which makes them fairly rigid but before I had finished fitting the front one’s, I had managed to bend the rear ones so I soldered some 2x1mm bar behind them to give some strength.
The only things left to fit, are a pair of globe lubricators that sit on the front of the sandboxes either side of the smokebox. The reason that I haven’t fitted them yet is that I have lost them. I bought them at the same time as the backhead and some additional valve rods so I know that they are here somewhere but can I find them….
Of course, the moment I order some more to replace them they will pop out from where they are hiding so I am holding off for the minute.
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- LNER V2 2-6-2 'Green Arrow'
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:24 am
Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Worth knowing Rob, that the supports for the steps are prototypical in that Ivatt style locos certainly had brackets
behind them to push the step back away from the coupling rods.
Paul
behind them to push the step back away from the coupling rods.
Paul
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Thanks Paul,
I assumed that they must be, it was quite a clever fold up to get the shape. Once I had seen the etch and realised that the step would need to be bent to fit. In most black and white photos it's very hard to see the bend in the step, you have to really look for it.
if it had just been a kit designer's add on, I think that there would have been some provision to strengthen the rear steps too.
I assumed that they must be, it was quite a clever fold up to get the shape. Once I had seen the etch and realised that the step would need to be bent to fit. In most black and white photos it's very hard to see the bend in the step, you have to really look for it.
if it had just been a kit designer's add on, I think that there would have been some provision to strengthen the rear steps too.
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- LNER V2 2-6-2 'Green Arrow'
- Posts: 1101
- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2011 12:24 am
Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
One always assumes that the modeller having spent time and effort building the loco is not
going to pick it up by the rear steps However, cannot be sure about other handlers.
Looking good, though, can't wait for you to find the globe oilers.!!!!!!!!
Paul
going to pick it up by the rear steps However, cannot be sure about other handlers.
Looking good, though, can't wait for you to find the globe oilers.!!!!!!!!
Paul
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Me too or I may have to buy some more, they are so much a part of the look of the lco that it really needs them.john coffin wrote: ↑Sun Nov 29, 2020 1:18 pm
Looking good, though, can't wait for you to find the globe oilers.!!!!!!!!
Paul
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Not a great deal to show for this week’s efforts on the J6.
I filled in the lightening holes in the front of the frames as the photo that I am working from doesn’t show any. I also cut away the bottom of the etched ashpan sides and fitted a representation of the bottom. This may need a bit of trimming to clear the gear wheel once finally fitted.
The rest of the time has been spent patiently filing the hornblocks, hornguides and the cranks to enable the cranks and eccentrics to fit between the centre hornguides and rotate freely.
Due to the need to get the loco around 5’6” curves the frames are a bit narrower than they might have been if I had been building for myself.
So far, so good.
I filled in the lightening holes in the front of the frames as the photo that I am working from doesn’t show any. I also cut away the bottom of the etched ashpan sides and fitted a representation of the bottom. This may need a bit of trimming to clear the gear wheel once finally fitted.
The rest of the time has been spent patiently filing the hornblocks, hornguides and the cranks to enable the cranks and eccentrics to fit between the centre hornguides and rotate freely.
Due to the need to get the loco around 5’6” curves the frames are a bit narrower than they might have been if I had been building for myself.
So far, so good.
- Atlantic 3279
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 6660
- Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:51 am
- Location: 2850, 245
Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
I'm reminded of John quick slimming down the working motion parts in order to fit between the frames on an O gauge model of Valour some years ago.
I feel no need to emulate your dedication Rob.
I feel no need to emulate your dedication Rob.
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Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
Dec. 2018: Almost all images that disappeared from my own thread following loss of free remote hosting are now restored.
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Thanks Graham,
I do sometimes wonder but I can't help myself....
After reading Tony’s struggle to fit all the inside motion in his J6 and observations made on a couple of forums by Ian Middleditch and Jim Snowdon. I decided to take the plunge and cut some new frame spacers to give me more room to play with. With the new spacers I have given myself a couple more millimetres. The downside is that I need to make a new motion bracket but I am sure it will be worth it.
I do sometimes wonder but I can't help myself....
After reading Tony’s struggle to fit all the inside motion in his J6 and observations made on a couple of forums by Ian Middleditch and Jim Snowdon. I decided to take the plunge and cut some new frame spacers to give me more room to play with. With the new spacers I have given myself a couple more millimetres. The downside is that I need to make a new motion bracket but I am sure it will be worth it.
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
- Location: Lower Wensleydale
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
I have been distracted for the last few days by teaching myself to draw in QCAD with a view to getting a few things etched. Before that I had made some progress on the rest of the inside valve gear.
Early in the week Tony Geary kindly pointed me at a photo of the inside valve gear on a 7 ½” gauge N2. Armed with this as a starting point I searched online and found a Facebook page chronicling the guy’s build. In his photo section I found loads of photos which have gone a long way to clarify in my mind what I was struggling to interpret from the GA.
I have a few photos of the full sized N2 valve gear which again are great for showing how things fit together above the slide bars but not below which is the area that I was struggling with. The build photos have clarified things now I just need to make up all the parts. Unfortunately, most of mine will need to be made from scratch as my spares box is nowhere near as comprehensive as Tony’s.
The sections are just resting in place for the photos I have a lot more to attach to both the motion plate and cylinder front before finally joining them.
Early in the week Tony Geary kindly pointed me at a photo of the inside valve gear on a 7 ½” gauge N2. Armed with this as a starting point I searched online and found a Facebook page chronicling the guy’s build. In his photo section I found loads of photos which have gone a long way to clarify in my mind what I was struggling to interpret from the GA.
I have a few photos of the full sized N2 valve gear which again are great for showing how things fit together above the slide bars but not below which is the area that I was struggling with. The build photos have clarified things now I just need to make up all the parts. Unfortunately, most of mine will need to be made from scratch as my spares box is nowhere near as comprehensive as Tony’s.
The sections are just resting in place for the photos I have a lot more to attach to both the motion plate and cylinder front before finally joining them.
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
- Location: Lower Wensleydale
- Contact:
Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
Although I haven’t posted an update since before Christmas, I have been doing a bit here and there. Mostly this has been making the additional bits and pieces needed for the inside motion. The motion for the J6 differs from other versions of Stephenson’s motion in that it has four valves rather than the more usual two. There are two between the cylinders and two above them. Although I have the full LG Stephenson’s motion set, in the end I doubt that I will be able to use much more than the connecting rods, eccentric rods and the slide bars and cross heads. The other bits will go in the spares box for a future build.
The arms that fit to the lower linkages still need to be shortened to 5.5mm between hole centres.
The expansion links in the motion kit are a couple of millimetres longer than the GA and have a lug on one side which I would have to cut off for this particular application.
As I am making all the other parts to match the dimensions on the GA, I opted to make a pair of expansion links to match. Working on the theory that I always have the LG castings as a fall back, if my home brewed ones don’t fit for any reason.
The arms that fit to the lower linkages still need to be shortened to 5.5mm between hole centres.
The expansion links in the motion kit are a couple of millimetres longer than the GA and have a lug on one side which I would have to cut off for this particular application.
As I am making all the other parts to match the dimensions on the GA, I opted to make a pair of expansion links to match. Working on the theory that I always have the LG castings as a fall back, if my home brewed ones don’t fit for any reason.
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
You are very welcome Caroline.
- Robpulham
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 1721
- Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:54 pm
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Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
A post on a few forums by Nick Dunhill on his build of a Rhymney Railway R class on preparing the eccentric sheaves couldn’t have been timelier.
I am just at that point so the night before last I made up a similar jig from a couple of bits of wood that I had on the bench and having consulted the GA for the length of the sheave I marked up and drilled a hole for the pin (a 0.8mm drill bit). Finally, I filed and soldered up the first sheave. Last night I managed a couple more.
I am just at that point so the night before last I made up a similar jig from a couple of bits of wood that I had on the bench and having consulted the GA for the length of the sheave I marked up and drilled a hole for the pin (a 0.8mm drill bit). Finally, I filed and soldered up the first sheave. Last night I managed a couple more.
Re: Gladiator LNER/BR J6
I love inside motion