Latest project a D&S NER 6 wheel Brake . This has been quite a bit of work so far. Lots of handrails required which were a lot of bending!! Photos are prior to final wash . It is now in etch primer finish , awaiting Teak paint.
Mick :wave
Micks 4mm LNER Models
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Micks 4mm LNER Models
D&S ex NER 10 ton Brake Van detail obtained from the excellent Tatlow LNER Wagons Vol 2. I have added some detail to body including lamp irons and lamps. Wheels are taped at moment pending underframe weathering via airbrush.
Latest project a D&S NER 6 wheel Brake . This has been quite a bit of work so far. Lots of handrails required which were a lot of bending!! Photos are prior to final wash . It is now in etch primer finish , awaiting Teak paint.
Mick :wave
Latest project a D&S NER 6 wheel Brake . This has been quite a bit of work so far. Lots of handrails required which were a lot of bending!! Photos are prior to final wash . It is now in etch primer finish , awaiting Teak paint.
Mick :wave
Last edited by mick b on Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:18 pm, edited 16 times in total.
-how did you manage that?Interesting to see how they before your weathering too,you have that down to a very fine art!Hi Rob
Very simple surplus Slaters Hopper Transfers !! I have just painted black over some of the original number to something similar to the Van number. With a coat of grime it will be fine. The NER number is very prominant on the Van in the original photograph .
I also added a etched plate underneath prior to painting I wished I had taken a picture prior to painting which would have made it clearer what has been added to the body.
One other thing I have now added are the metal rods that hang between each door as a safety barrier. I added small wire eyes to the van under the windows to hang them from. I will post a further picture when airbrushed.
cheers Mick
Very simple surplus Slaters Hopper Transfers !! I have just painted black over some of the original number to something similar to the Van number. With a coat of grime it will be fine. The NER number is very prominant on the Van in the original photograph .
I also added a etched plate underneath prior to painting I wished I had taken a picture prior to painting which would have made it clearer what has been added to the body.
One other thing I have now added are the metal rods that hang between each door as a safety barrier. I added small wire eyes to the van under the windows to hang them from. I will post a further picture when airbrushed.
cheers Mick
Last edited by mick b on Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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jwealleans
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 4303
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am
Cracking stuff as ever, Mick. I rather like those horseboxes - must get round to building mine. I see you've used the 'left over Slaters builders plate' dodge as well - it amuses me every time I look at David Geen's site as almost all his NE wagons have the 20T hopper plates on.
How different is that NE brakevan to the LNER one which Parkside do? (Just to continue my current Parkside conversion line of thought).
How different is that NE brakevan to the LNER one which Parkside do? (Just to continue my current Parkside conversion line of thought).
Can wait to see that 
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wehf100
- GCR D11 4-4-0 'Improved Director'
- Posts: 486
- Joined: Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:42 pm
- Location: Cambridgeshire
wonderful stuff, although you hardly need me to say that!
Could I ask how you soldered the handrails on the brake van. I have struggled with them, notably the 'T' shaped joints. Do you use a jig, template or some such thing, or do you do it in situ? I simply find keeping two round sections of metal butting against one another at 90' almost impossible without clamping over the joint itself- thereby blocking the area that the soldering iron needs to touch. any tricks??!!
many thanks, hope the question isnt too banal!
Will
Could I ask how you soldered the handrails on the brake van. I have struggled with them, notably the 'T' shaped joints. Do you use a jig, template or some such thing, or do you do it in situ? I simply find keeping two round sections of metal butting against one another at 90' almost impossible without clamping over the joint itself- thereby blocking the area that the soldering iron needs to touch. any tricks??!!
many thanks, hope the question isnt too banal!
Will
Hi
I use pieces of scrap etch nickel silver from motion etch sheet (doesnt solder as easily) on both sides of the corner. This ensures a constant depth to all of my handrails as well as corners.
Solder one side into position. The quickly solder the other side holding the finished side with fingers gets a tad hot occasionally but if your quick (I use a 24 watt iron) it should be ok. Clean up the joint with needle file afterwards.
Sometimes the joint will fail in handling but it takes a couple of seconds to redo. I must have done some of the ones in the pictures 3 or 4 times before i was happpy with final result before painting.
Hope that makes sense i will post a couple of pictures
Mick
I use pieces of scrap etch nickel silver from motion etch sheet (doesnt solder as easily) on both sides of the corner. This ensures a constant depth to all of my handrails as well as corners.
Solder one side into position. The quickly solder the other side holding the finished side with fingers gets a tad hot occasionally but if your quick (I use a 24 watt iron) it should be ok. Clean up the joint with needle file afterwards.
Sometimes the joint will fail in handling but it takes a couple of seconds to redo. I must have done some of the ones in the pictures 3 or 4 times before i was happpy with final result before painting.
Hope that makes sense i will post a couple of pictures
Mick
Last edited by mick b on Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: ex NER Brake Vans + Horsebox
Both finished
Now building ex NER Dia 25 O/F CCT
Mick
Now building ex NER Dia 25 O/F CCT
Mick
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jwealleans
- LNER A4 4-6-2 'Streak'
- Posts: 4303
- Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2006 8:46 am
Re: ex NER Brake Vans + Horsebox+ CCT
Quality as ever, Mick. That last CCT is a little gem - I don't ever recall seeing one of those before. Is it a Victorian design?